How to make a straw bale garden bed Our 1st Lucerne alfalfa hay bale bed

Have wanted to make up some straw/hay bale garden beds for a while now & am happy I finely have..




The second bed is in the process of being planted & have also started a small no dig straw/hay bed for some potatoes to go into.. I love the idea of being able to grow in the straw as it slowly turns into compost & humus that can be added to other beds once it finishes breaking down...

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How our Aquaponic system works

Made up a bit of a clip on Sunday just showing how the aquaponic system is configured for now.. I think it will always be a work in progress as there will always be something to play or experiment with.. Have already got a few ideas on how the new beds will be made, arranged 7 plumbed up.. Just need to wait for some plants to wind down before I can start moving the bed to make some room :)»





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2 days later ph is very low how do I adjust it

Since I have read in many places that for aquaponics, the pH should be somewhere around 6.5 to 7, I decided to mesure the pH of the water in my tower since the beginning. I used little pH strips with 3 colored indicators to determine and I was surprised when I saw a pH of 5 ( or below, since the strips do not go below 5). I was surprise as my vermicompost pH usually is around 7 and 7.5, and that I assumed that my "tea" would be close to that. Also, before starting I downloaded the NYC water quality report, in which they indicate a ph close to neutral ( ie 7ish).
I therefore dived a fistful of vermicompost and stuck a strip in it, to come back to it later (after 10 min or so, so the moisture has time to react with the strip). The color indicator suggested a pH close to 7.5 ( slightly above). So I then measure the pH of the tap water ... And it was a quite surprising 5 !
Anyway. Once I realized that, I looked in my kitchen cabinet and pulled baking soda and baking powder ( both contain sodium carbonate, which should help raising the ph). Baking powder also contains phosphate. I mixed 1/8th of a teaspoon and added a "knife tip" to the sump tank, kept the pump going for an hour, and checked the pH again, it still indicated 5. I added more, and more and... I almost used all the mix. The pH was still 5,  I stopped kept the pump running overnight and measured again in the morning. The pH was still 5 ( and a bicarbonate solution was 9 (or above) so the strips do work). I stopped adding the baking powder/soda mix as I became worried that I would add to much sodium. I therefore turned t the only free source of carbonate I could think of : eggshells ( calcium bicarbonate), I added a teaspoon of it and let it do its thing for the day. In the evening, the pH was raised to 5.5. This morning, the pH was back down to 5 ... I therefore stole a nylon sock form moja sarenka, and stuffed crushed eggshell in it, then threw it in the sumptank. Later today, the pH raised to 6 ! In order to not shock the plants more than they need I decided to remove the sock around 6pm. I will check the pH again once I am back home.
Why do I want to raise the pH ? Well, reading a few forums and othe guides for aquaponics, it seems that the pH is a quite important factor for maintaining favorable condition for the bacteria responsible for transforming ammonium to nitrite and then nitrite to nitrate, which is the form of nitrogen that the plants can use for this needs. Actually, the higher the better - to a point, but it would then become an unfavorable pH for the future fishies to come. This is why I feel the need to adjust the pH up.

Back at home :
The sock filled with crushed eggshell: 

The new pH reading : 6.5 ! it kept rising without the sock in it - probably some of the finer pieces fell though, and kept being disolved. Online sources says that the pH stabilizes around 7 to 7.5 or 8 with crushed eggshels (and other sources of calcium carbonate).

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How I got involved in high tunnel aquaponics

Im a pretty effusive optimist, but Im also a bit of a doomer.

Problem: My dad has Type 2 diabetes. If his supply of medication were interrupted for an extended period (due to any number of realistic possible causes), how could we keep him alive and healthy?

Solution: Without medication, radical dietary changes would be necessary. A traditional Western, highly refined, carb-based diet would kill him in short order without his meds. To use metaphor: if proteins are logs, carbs are twigs, and fats are leaves, and if the ideal state for a Type 2 diabetic is a steady, slow-burning fire, then logs are the way to go. This means that his diet would need to be primarily protein. Ive seen this referred to as the "face" diet, as in, "For Type 2 diabetics in scenarios without meds, if it doesnt have a face, dont eat it." Of course, the staple of meat would be supplemented by fresh fruits and vegetables (as much as his body deemed tolerable), but it would be wise to have the capacity to supply a pure meat diet for him if absolutely necessary for an extended period of time.

Problem: But if the supply of meds is interrupted for an extended period, then the supply of protein would almost certainly be interrupted as well. I dont live on a site with adequate room for growing livestock, and my dad doesnt want chickens, so how can I guarantee that he has access to an adequate supply of protein?

Solution: How about fish farming? This allows for the production of huge amounts of high quality protein in a limited space.

Problem: But growing fish in high densities requires massive water filtration; otherwise theyll quickly get sick and die. So how do I keep the water safely clean?

Solution: The toxicity of the water is caused by the accumulation of excess nutrients that can be used to grow plants. Therefore, if I add sufficient plants to the system, theyll uptake the excess nutrients and clean the water for the fish. (When I got online and began researching the concept of combining fish and plants in a symbiotic growing system, I learned that this method of growing is called aquaponics.)

Problem: How do I keep an aquaponics food production system going year round?

Solution: Enclose the aquaponics system in a greenhouse environment.

Problem: How do I do that effectively and economically?

Solution: Use a modified high tunnel as a passive solar greenhouse.

So thats what Im doing.
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How to make an easy as worm barrel farm for lawn clippings garden scraps


It really cant get more simple that this barrel farm.. I call it a dump & walk barrel as that is how I feed it.. A catcher or 2 or lawn clippings get dumped into the barrels & I walk away, its as easy as that.. The prunings & old plants from the veggie bed in the patch go in whole if they are small enough or get the once over with the lawnmower to chop them up a bit if they are to large..


A great type of farm to have under a fruit tree as any nutrients that leach out will feed the tree.. One like this will be added to a new bed we are making out the front soon..

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R?b..
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How to save time and money when starting tomato plants for your garden

Here for your reading pleasure is an article from a You Tube friend of mine.. Was such a great article that I asked his permission & have posted it here for your reading pleasure.. If you would like to check out more of Dales clips you can find his You Tube channel Easy Grows It here, & the site that the article come from goes by the same name & can be found at easygrowsit.com .


How to save time and money when starting tomato plants for your garden

By Easy
easy@easygrowsit.com
February 24nd, 2013
If you, like many of us, grow lots of tomato plants for your garden every year, you start them from seed. Starting from seed can be tedious, time consuming and sometimes quite frustrating. You have to plan ahead so your little crop is ready to plant when the time is right. This usually means starting your seeds from 6-8 weeks before it’s time to plant them in the garden.
To start our seeds, some of us use 10? x 20? trays with cells for each seed. Others use anything from solo cups to microwave dishes from their last frozen dinner. It doesn’t matter what you grow them in, you’ll need to make sure they always get the proper amount of water, light and warmth to start them right. It requires a certain amount of attention at this stage and mistakes can set you back to the point of having to start over. Forget to water your little tomato plants and you could end up with plants that are stunted or dead and you could have to start all over.
At some point in the process, you’ll need to transplant the little seedlings into larger containers at least once. Depending on how large you want them at planting time, maybe twice. As I said above, it can get a little tedious and time consuming, especially if you’re doing the same with other plants like peppers at the same time.
The obvious alternative to growing tomato plants from seeds is to go buy small plants from a local nursery or home improvement store just before you need to put them out in the garden. Depending on how many plants you need, it can be quite expensive. If I remember correctly, last year the price of small tomato plants at home improvement stores were about US$3.50 each in 4 inch pots. If you bought a dozen plants, you were looking at around $42 plus tax. How many tomatoes would it take to make up for a $42 investment? That’s assuming all your plants survived to produce tomatoes.
So, starting tomatoes from $1.50 worth of seeds is easily more economical although much more risky and difficult. Buying plants somewhere is much less risky but much more expensive. What if I told you that you could have the benefits of both choices without the huge monetary outlay and without having to monitor dozens of baby plants from seed? Would that be something that might interest you? If it is, please read on.
For those of you that do not know much about tomatoes and tomato plants, let me give you a little background information before I move on. Tomatoes are actually a fruit, not a vegetable. I, like many, was not aware of this fact for quite some time and I was quite surprised to hear that. Tomato plants are actually vines, unlike, say, a bell pepper plant, which is technically a tree.
Vines are interesting plants. Some if not most vines (I don’t claim to be a vine expert or any kind of expert for that matter) will sprout roots when buried in soil. More roots means more water and nutrients for the plant as well as having a stronger base in the ground to support the plant. You can actually plant a tomato plant, with proper preparation, horizontally in a trench leaving just the very top of the tomato plant sticking out of the ground. It will develop many more roots than with the typical planting method and it will be much more strongly rooted in the ground as well. This is called the trench planting method. If you’d like to see exactly how this works, here’s a link to a You Tube video my friend Bobby (Mhpgardener on You Tube) did showing how it’s done…Planting Tomatoes – A Quick Tip
Tomatoes grow new baby plants at the intersection where a branch and the main stem meets. This intersection is typically called a crotch and the new baby plant that develops there is usually called a sucker. I am sure there is probably a more scientific name but gardeners usually call it a sucker because it takes energy away from the main plant to grow this new baby plant. Remember, a tomato plant is a vine and vines like to spread all over. Some tomato growers remove these suckers and others like to leave them on. I’ll leave that subject for another article.
Picture of a sucker growing from a tomato plant courtesy of mhpgardener of You Tube.
Picture of a sucker growing from a tomato plant courtesy of mhpgardener of You Tube.
At this point, you might be saying to yourself, “This is all very interesting and good but what does all this have to do with how I get a bunch of tomato plants to plant in my garden?” I appreciate your patience dear reader and now that I have explained enough background information, let’s get to the point.
Suckers, as I said, are baby tomato plants. It’s like a another tomato plant growing out of the main tomato plant, which is called the mother plant. If you would snip off a decent sized sucker (six inches long or longer with a few full sets of leaves) from the mother plant and stick the bottom of the sucker in water, in a matter of three days to a couple of weeks, depending on the variety of tomato plant, you should see roots develop under and at the water line. Once they start to develop roots, those roots will grow at a very rapid rate. This is called “rooting” a plant. It’s also called “cloning”.
After the roots get a few inches long (don’t let them get too out of hand) you can transplant the new tomato plant into soil and it will grow like any other tomato plant in soil. Now, the really amazing as well as useful part of this whole process is that not only does the new sucker derived plant give you a whole new plant to grow, it doesn’t know it’s a new plant. To it, it’s a fully developed tomato plant, not a 6 week old baby plant that grew from seed and is still maturing. If the mother plant is three months old, the sucker is just as mature, just smaller. It’s ready to put on flowers and start bearing fruit right away unlike it’s six week old, grown from seed counterpart.
So now, let’s put it all together. If you needed a dozen or so tomato plants, instead of planting twelve seeds 6-8 weeks ahead of time, you could grow one or two mother plants a month or two earlier than that so they have suckers a few weeks before you needed plants to put in the garden. Not only will the sucker derived plants be more mature and ready to start producing right away, you’d be using less seeds and can still get more suckers later from the mother plant in case something terrible happens to your garden such as hail storm. The mother plant will continue to keep making suckers for you in case you need them.
I almost forgot! There’s another reason to generate plants this way. Not only will the mother plant give you lots of baby plants, chances are, depending on when you started your mother plant, it will also give you tomatoes as well by the time you start setting your new plants out in the garden.


Dont forget to check out Dales You Tube channel & Web site..

Have a great one all

: )»


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How to plant broccoli other brassicas

Was blown away by how well the broccoli & cauliflower did last year after trying this simple technique.. I came across this method of planting out brassicas last year & was very pleased with the results.. The plants that were planted in loose soil only did fair to average so decided to plant them all into firm soil this season.. 


Updates on how the plants all go will be included in the Autumn & Winter walk around clips..

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How we grow Kang Kong Chinese water spinach Ipomoea aquatica

Kang kong is a short vining, water loving plant that is used in many different Asian cuisines.. It is related to sweet potato & Morning glory with flowers very similar to both.. Mainly grown in boggy areas & have become a pest weed in some water systems where it has been introduced..Should be very easy to grow this plant in the heat we get here & cant wait to get our first large harvest..



 We are growing it as a leafy green to be included in salads & our fruit n veg "Smoothies" as well as for stir fries & Asian curries..

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Cheap chicken feeder how to build a bulk chicken feeder

Had a friend come around & we built a chook feeder each of varying sizes.. It was a really easy build only requiring the drum & the flanged elbow.. The only tools needed were a marking pen, ruler, hacksaw, & a 95mm hole saw but other methods could be used to cut out the hole.. The build itself took all of 10 minutes to make, it was that easy & cost about $20AU/US..


Will make the job of feeding the Chooks so much easier as the drum will easily take a whole 25kg/55lb bag.. Next on the jobbie list will be a black solider fly farm that will live in the chook pen..
A big thanks to Hamish121212 for posting his clip on the feeder..
I would also like to thank Adie for springing for the elbow.. Adie has a blog on her families progress in an urban environment for the Owner Builder Network site where you can see the MKI chook feeder she made before up scaling..


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How to make a chicken waterer with nipple drippers

Made up a chicken waterer for the girls cage over the past few days.. This one is 25L/6½gal in size & should last the 4 of them for at least a week if not longer I think..



A closed in water feeder like this will also help to keep their water cleaner.. It was a constant battle with them scratching dirt into their old feeder so it needed cleaning at least every second day..  I think the closed in feeder will definitely take some of the "AWWW DAAAD" out of the daily chicken choirs..
I have already started to work on another design that I will have a crack at at a later date..

There are also the "Chicken feeder, Living greens feeder for poultry or rabbits"
& the "Cheap chicken feeder, how to build a bulk chicken/poultry feeder" clips that might interest you if your into doing some basic DIY jobs around the chook pen..

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